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Diesel Engine Additives - Do you really need them?

Wondering if diesel additives are worth it? Discover what they do, when you need them, and whether they really benefit modern diesel engines. 

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Ever been in a petrol station, or a big orange car-supplies shop, and spotted the rows of various diesel additives lined up? You may have wondered what they do, and whether they’re worth the money.

Plenty of companies promise engine improvements from their little bottle of wonder-mix, from cleaner injectors to better fuel economy, smoother running and even lower emissions, just by popping their additive in your fuel tank.

But do they actually work, and more importantly, do you actually need them in a modern diesel car or diesel van?

This guide explains what diesel additives do, when they’re worth using, and how to choose and use them safely.

What Diesel Engine Additives Do

Diesel additives come in several different forms, each designed to target a specific issue inside the fuel system.


These diesel additive cleaners are designed to remove deposits from injectors, fuel rails and pumps. Over time – especially on high-mileage engines or vehicles that do lots of short trips – tiny carbon and varnish deposits can build up on the injector tips. This can affect their spray patterns, making a diesel car or van feel rough at idle, a bit sluggish, or slightly down on fuel economy.

A decent fuel additive for diesel can sometimes restore smoother running and help recover lost performance, particularly on older engines.

Cetane is to diesel what octane is to petrol – a measure of how easily the fuel ignites under compression. Cetane booster additives are designed to raise the cetane number slightly so that combustion starts more cleanly. In reality, that can mean easier cold starts, quieter running and marginally better fuel efficiency. However, many “premium” diesels already contain extra detergents and cetane improvers straight from the refinery.

Diesel can become waxy or gel-like in very cold temperatures, which can block filters and fuel lines. Anti-gel additives lower the temperature at which crystals form, so the fuel continues to flow.

However, in the UK, road diesel sold between roughly mid-November and mid-March is legally required to meet winter-grade EN 590 specifications, with a cold filter plugging point (CFPP) down to –15°C. That means daily-driven cars and vans that refuel regularly don’t usually need extra anti-gel.

Where such additives are useful is when a car or van has been sitting for months with summer diesel still inside when winter arrives, or you’re driving in exceptionally cold conditions and want extra protection.

Lubricity additives help replace the lubricating properties lost when sulphur was removed from modern diesel, protecting the high-pressure fuel pump and injectors from wear by forming a protective film over internal components.

Some additives are marketed as emissions reducers or diesel particulate filter (DPF) cleaners, and it’s important to understand how these actually work. Part of the emissions benefit can come from cleaner injectors and higher cetane, which encourage better combustion and slightly less soot. Many DPF-focused additives contain metal catalysts (often iron or cerium compounds) known as fuel-borne catalysts or FBCs.

These don’t magically stop soot forming, but they lower the temperature at which soot burns inside the DPF and help it clean itself at lower exhaust temperatures – a process known as regeneration. DPF additives make that process more likely to be successful on vehicles that do a lot of short, low-speed journeys.

Modern UK diesel typically contains up to seven percent biodiesel, known as B7. Biodiesel is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water more readily and that can encourage microbial growth, commonly called diesel bug.

This particularly affects vans, campers, and motorhomes, or any diesel vehicle that sits idle for weeks or months. Diesel bug can form a sludge that clogs filters and fuel lines. In such cases, biocide additives can be useful to prevent or treat contamination in stored fuel.

AdBlue is NOT a diesel additive!

We’ll mention AdBlue here because it’s often displayed next to diesel additives. However, it’s very important to note that AdBlue is not a diesel additive and should never be poured into your fuel tank.

AdBlue is a urea-based exhaust fluid designed to reduce nitrogen oxides (NOx) emissions. It has a separate tank and filler cap on vehicles fitted with AdBlue systems. 

Putting AdBlue in the diesel tank can cause serious damage to your fuel system, and can cost thousands of pounds to fix.


Do You Really Need a Diesel Additive?

Whether you should use a diesel additive depends almost entirely on the age of your vehicle, how you drive it, and the quality of the fuel you use.

When additives are helpful:

Older or high-mileage vehicles: Over tens of thousands of miles, injector deposits can inevitably form. A one-shot intensive cleaner can often restore lost fuel economy and smooth out a rough idle in older vans or cars.

Short-journey drivers: If you rarely drive your diesel car or van on motorways, your DPF may struggle to get hot enough to clean itself. A DPF additive can help the system regenerate at lower temperatures, potentially saving you a sizable repair bill.

Vehicles left idle: If you’ve got fuel sitting in a tank unused for a long period of time, biocide additives can prevent and treat diesel bug. They’re strongly recommended for seasonal vehicles like campers.

Budget fuel users: If you use exclusively cut-price supermarket diesel, an occasional dose of additive can bring back the detergent and cetane levels closer to premium fuels, keeping your injectors and combustion in good shape.


When additives may not be necessary:


Modern Euro 6 vehicles: If your car or van’s engine conforms to Euro 6 regulations, it’ll operate at very high temperatures with very fine calibrations, and is designed to work correctly on standard diesel (EN590, if you’re interested) without extra treatments. Check your manual – many manufacturers specifically advise against using them.

If you use premium fuel: If you fill up with BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power or similar premium diesels, you’re already paying extra for the high-quality additives added before you pump. Adding more won’t give you much extra benefit.

During the UK winter: All diesel sold at UK pumps from mid-November to mid-March is legally required to be Winter Grade, protected down to -15 degrees C. 

Unless you’re off to somewhere extremely cold, or you still have summer fuel in your tank in December, you’re unlikely to need an anti-gel additive.



How to Choose the Right Additive

If you’ve decided that your diesel car or van could, in fact, benefit from some treatment, choosing the best diesel fuel additive comes down to matching the product with the problem.

Start with your car’s manual. If the manufacturer only permits certain categories, such as injector cleaners but not DPF additives, then that’s your first filter sorted. If in doubt, look for products clearly marked as safe for common-rail injection, compatible with DPF-equipped vehicles and tested to recognised standards, such as ASTM or ACEA.

Next, think about the use case, not the brand hype. Engine running rough, or poor MPG? Look for a diesel fuel additive cleaner for your injectors. For stored fuel, think about a biocide, and if you know you have DPF issues, a DPF-specific additive can help – but only after a proper mechanical assessment.

How to Use Diesel Additives Safely

Whatever brand you choose, most instructions will be similar. Make sure you add the correct amount of additive to the tank, usually before you fill up so that it mixes thoroughly with the diesel.

Stick to the recommended dose – overdosing, particularly with DPF additives, can cause damage. And avoid mixing multiple products unless the manufacturer states that they’re compatible.

If you’re wondering how often you should add diesel fuel additive, a typical pattern for a working car or van might be as follows:

  • Injector cleaner: Every few thousand miles, or a couple of times a year, if needed
  • Biocide: Before a vehicle is laid up for a long period, or occasionally for cars or vans that sit idle
  • DPF additive: Only when advised and for a specific issue

Remember, additives are not a magic fix. 

If your engine won’t start, has smoke coming from it, or keeps putting your DPF light on, you need proper diagnostics and possibly mechanical repair. 

A bottle of stuff in your fuel tank on its own won’t cut it.

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